Anyone know how to get the door panel off?

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Atlanta, Georgia (upper westside)
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#1
I was putting in the puddle lights from abstract ocean and accidentally got one of the lights stuck in the door. I put one in the wrong way and when I tried getting it out, I accidentally pulled the plastic cover off. When I tried to put it back on, the light went up into the door so now I need to take the panel off to get it out.
 

350VDC

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#2
This video has the whole procedure.
 

Rhaekar

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#4
It happened to me too. I didn't have to take the whole panel off. I just used the spudger make some space at the bottom to get a few fingers in to push the cable back out of the hole.
 

EV-lution

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#5
I plan to take off the door panels and add some Noico sound deadening material. I would like to see exactly how to take the door panels off and put them back on without damaging clips... the video is pretty good, but there are a few steps missing. I also want to get to the wheel wells front and back to see if I can insulate to reduce road noise.
 

Urs

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#6
I plan to take off the door panels and add some Noico sound deadening material. I would like to see exactly how to take the door panels off and put them back on without damaging clips... the video is pretty good, but there are a few steps missing. I also want to get to the wheel wells front and back to see if I can insulate to reduce road noise.
Same problem here. To what I can see from the above video there is plenty of insulation on that door. So I don't know if more insulation would help any.
I plastered the wheel wells with lots of sound deadening material but the results are rather underwhelming. My major problem is the tire noise on rough roads. IMG_20180627_124112098.jpg
Did the same with the trunk/rear end of the car - not much difference. Overall the car is quieter, but the jet engine vibration on rough roads is still way too loud.
Anybody any suggestions?
 

EV-lution

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#7
Same problem here. To what I can see from the above video there is plenty of insulation on that door. So I don't know if more insulation would help any.
I plastered the wheel wells with lots of sound deadening material but the results are rather underwhelming. My major problem is the tire noise on rough roads. View attachment 10807
Did the same with the trunk/rear end of the car - not much difference. Overall the car is quieter, but the jet engine vibration on rough roads is still way too loud.
Anybody any suggestions?
Nice work on the wheel wells! I think you could get a bit more sound deadening from the doors, they just have a wimpy piece of white material and a little square of noico in them. I would also try applying some sound deadening to the fire wall in front of the driver and passenger foot well, as far as I can tell, that is the only place exposed to front wheel noise. A thick piece of insulating floor mat should do the job. Also, lower tire pressure to 39 psi as recommended by Elon. At this point the car is pretty quiet for me so I might not bother with the doors, it's quieter than any car I've owned, except the Model X, so I'm a happy camper.
 

Urs

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#8
Nice work on the wheel wells! I think you could get a bit more sound deadening from the doors, they just have a wimpy piece of white material and a little square of noico in them. I would also try applying some sound deadening to the fire wall in front of the driver and passenger foot well, as far as I can tell, that is the only place exposed to front wheel noise. A thick piece of insulating floor mat should do the job. Also, lower tire pressure to 39 psi as recommended by Elon. At this point the car is pretty quiet for me so I might not bother with the doors, it's quieter than any car I've owned, except the Model X, so I'm a happy camper.
Thanks. Just tried lower tire pressure - went to 35psi. Its much smoother on bumps etc. but the jet engine roar is still the same on rough pavement. - - - the saga continues.
I'll try the doors next :cool:
 

EV-lution

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#9
Thanks. Just tried lower tire pressure - went to 35psi. Its much smoother on bumps etc. but the jet engine roar is still the same on rough pavement. - - - the saga continues.
I'll try the doors next :cool:
This video will help with the door project:
 

Urs

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#10
Tesla Model 3 Rear Door Panel Removal

OK, I did it. Here is how I removed and replaced the left rear door panel:
There are 2 torx screws and numerous plastic clips holding the cover panel in place. The first screw is located right in the middle of the handle and is visible from below. The picture shows the bolt already removed.
upload_2018-6-28_19-28-44.png
The second one is hidden behind a cover under the very front of the handle. The coverlet snaps off forward. Picture shows coverlet and bolt removed. Make a note of the angle of the bolt.
upload_2018-6-28_19-28-57.png
Once these 2 are removed you just pull – pull hard, use a plastic pry tool, those plastic clips are really hard to pull out. The top is just hooked in with 3 large tabs, just pull up a little bit.
Once you got the cover off you have to remove all the wires. Figure out how these connectors release, some have a little push button, some have a tiny release lever. You might label them, but they are pretty obvious where they go back. The actual wire colors do not match.
Now you can set the cover aside. But you are still looking at a closed door. That large black plastic panel contains the window crank assembly.
upload_2018-6-28_19-28-6.png

First you must remove the glass:
The red arrow in the picture points to one of the 2 bolts that hold the glass. The hole is covered with a black rubber grommet. Remove it and lower or rise the window until you see the bolt that holds the glass on (Notice the wire to the window motor is still connected - use the switch in the front door). It requires a 13mm socket. There is a second one towards the front of the door, just right of the white label. Remove those 2 bolts – don't worry, the glass won't fall, there are 2 hooks preventing it from falling, and the 'nuts' on the other side of the glass are glued on to the glass.
Pull out the rubber inner window seal on top of the door and pull the glass out. Disconnect the wire to the window motor.
Now you can remove the numerous bolts (8mm socket) on the periphery that hold this black panel in place. Do NOT remove the nuts (10mm wrench) on the interior of the panel, that holds the wires and pulleys for the window mechanism – leave them alone!
Now you can remove the panel from the door and you have finally access to the interior of the door.

To get everything back together just reverse the procedure. You might have to put some of the plastic tabs back on the cover panel because they might actually pulled off the panel instead of the door.

(I hope this posts all right)
 
Joined
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#11
Here's an update guys. I took my model 3 in for service a few weeks ago and while they had it, they got the bulb out and installed the aftermarket puddle light for me. Tesla service is fantastic.
 

EV-lution

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#12
Tesla Model 3 Rear Door Panel Removal

OK, I did it. Here is how I removed and replaced the left rear door panel:
There are 2 torx screws and numerous plastic clips holding the cover panel in place. The first screw is located right in the middle of the handle and is visible from below. The picture shows the bolt already removed.
View attachment 10848
The second one is hidden behind a cover under the very front of the handle. The coverlet snaps off forward. Picture shows coverlet and bolt removed. Make a note of the angle of the bolt.
View attachment 10849
Once these 2 are removed you just pull – pull hard, use a plastic pry tool, those plastic clips are really hard to pull out. The top is just hooked in with 3 large tabs, just pull up a little bit.
Once you got the cover off you have to remove all the wires. Figure out how these connectors release, some have a little push button, some have a tiny release lever. You might label them, but they are pretty obvious where they go back. The actual wire colors do not match.
Now you can set the cover aside. But you are still looking at a closed door. That large black plastic panel contains the window crank assembly.
View attachment 10847

First you must remove the glass:
The red arrow in the picture points to one of the 2 bolts that hold the glass. The hole is covered with a black rubber grommet. Remove it and lower or rise the window until you see the bolt that holds the glass on (Notice the wire to the window motor is still connected - use the switch in the front door). It requires a 13mm socket. There is a second one towards the front of the door, just right of the white label. Remove those 2 bolts – don't worry, the glass won't fall, there are 2 hooks preventing it from falling, and the 'nuts' on the other side of the glass are glued on to the glass.
Pull out the rubber inner window seal on top of the door and pull the glass out. Disconnect the wire to the window motor.
Now you can remove the numerous bolts (8mm socket) on the periphery that hold this black panel in place. Do NOT remove the nuts (10mm wrench) on the interior of the panel, that holds the wires and pulleys for the window mechanism – leave them alone!
Now you can remove the panel from the door and you have finally access to the interior of the door.

To get everything back together just reverse the procedure. You might have to put some of the plastic tabs back on the cover panel because they might actually pulled off the panel instead of the door.

(I hope this posts all right)
Thanks for the great information describing how to get the panel off and get inside the door. While you were in there, did you add some insulating material? If so, did you notice a reduction in road noise?