Radar Detector / Camera wiring options

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MadMax

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#1
Has anyone attempted to hardwire a radar detector yet in the 3? Has anyone tapped into the 12v cigarette lighter in the center console? I was thinking of either tapping the power there or possibly just getting a low-profile 12v cigarette lighter plug, extending the wire length, and winding it through the dash somehow and around the windshield to the rear view mirror area.
 

oripaamoni

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#2
Has anyone attempted to hardwire a radar detector yet in the 3? Has anyone tapped into the 12v cigarette lighter in the center console? I was thinking of either tapping the power there or possibly just getting a low-profile 12v cigarette lighter plug, extending the wire length, and winding it through the dash somehow and around the windshield to the rear view mirror area.
Once I get my 3 I plan on trying to wire it to the power that feeds the lights in the sun visor, I have done this on a previous car when I couldn't get switched power from the sunroof control circuit. I am against running wires tucked in the A-piller, In my opinion it would be ripped out by the airbag and can hit you in the face. I am not sure if the Model 3 has airbags in the A-piller though.
 

Scrapps

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#3
Curious about this too. From what I’ve read the cordless ones don’t seem as nearly as effective. I still don’t understand why these things need to be so big and ugly :(
 

MadMax

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#4
Once I get my 3 I plan on trying to wire it to the power that feeds the lights in the sun visor, I have done this on a previous car when I couldn't get switched power from the sunroof control circuit. I am against running wires tucked in the A-piller, In my opinion it would be ripped out by the airbag and can hit you in the face. I am not sure if the Model 3 has airbags in the A-piller though.
Didn't think about the potential airbag issue. It would suck not having switched power though :(
 

JWardell

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#5
Curious about this too. From what I’ve read the cordless ones don’t seem as nearly as effective. I still don’t understand why these things need to be so big and ugly :(
The best detectors like the V1 are larger because they need large radar horns to pick up weak signals. Just like those big satellite dishes on top of TV stations.
Of course your Tesla's radar will be constantly interfering with it and reducing performance, and all the other cars' side radars are annoying, so detectors are not quite as practical as they used to be.
 

oripaamoni

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#6
The best detectors like the V1 are larger because they need large radar horns to pick up weak signals. Just like those big satellite dishes on top of TV stations.
Of course your Tesla's radar will be constantly interfering with it and reducing performance, and all the other cars' side radars are annoying, so detectors are not quite as practical as they used to be.
I will be running a V1 in my car, if its mounted high up in the window it is barley noticeable.
 

zosoisnotaword

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#7
I will be running a V1 in my car, if its mounted high up in the window it is barley noticeable.
Same. Valentine's filtering is pretty good for blind spot monitors. I use the YaV1 app to quiet it down even further and allow GPS lockouts, so my V1 is completely silent to false alerts. There are currently a couple windshield-mount detectors out there with better blind spot monitor filtering and range, but there's no way I'd give up the arrows for that. Mike Valentine drives a Model S so surely he's got Tesla's radar systems adequately filtered. I'd hate to have to completely turn off K band if the Model 3 keeps it lit up.
 

Scrutmonkey

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#8
I was able to feed my 12v cig lighter wire from the top of the M3 into the cig lighter plug yesterday. i didn't have to remove too much and i basically just tucked it into the headliner/windshield, A pillar, along the weather stripping, behind the driver kick panel, tucked along a seam in the lower dash, the along the driver side of the console and into the plug compartment.

I really only needed to remove the kick panel, the console driver side trip, and the rail under the trim with a Torx.

My was was a little larger gauge so I removed the left rubber bump stop in the console to feed the wire. I might end up just cutting a slit and making a small hole just so i can put the rubber stop back in. i used a small flat head and my Chargepoint Keycard to tuck the wire.

If I can find a pic to draw up a path for you, it should help you.

there is a video on youtube that shows how to remove the console trim to feed the wire through to the 12v plug.
 

MadMax

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#9
I was able to feed my 12v cig lighter wire from the top of the M3 into the cig lighter plug yesterday. i didn't have to remove too much and i basically just tucked it into the headliner/windshield, A pillar, along the weather stripping, behind the driver kick panel, tucked along a seam in the lower dash, the along the driver side of the console and into the plug compartment.

I really only needed to remove the kick panel, the console driver side trip, and the rail under the trim with a Torx.

My was was a little larger gauge so I removed the left rubber bump stop in the console to feed the wire. I might end up just cutting a slit and making a small hole just so i can put the rubber stop back in. i used a small flat head and my Chargepoint Keycard to tuck the wire.

If I can find a pic to draw up a path for you, it should help you.

there is a video on youtube that shows how to remove the console trim to feed the wire through to the 12v plug.
Did you hardwire the detector into the power wire going to the plug (what I'm planning on doing) or just used the plug itself?
 

Scrutmonkey

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#10
Did you hardwire the detector into the power wire going to the plug (what I'm planning on doing) or just used the plug itself?
This was actually for the dash cam I had on my totaled Altima. That one I hardwired but this one I just plugged into the 12v. Here’s an overhead pic. I ended up drilling a hole and cutting a little to slip the wire through, but allow the driver side rubber stopper to be reinstalled. My thumb is covering up the bright blue light from the adapter.
 

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MadMax

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#11
This was actually for the dash cam I had on my totaled Altima. That one I hardwired but this one I just plugged into the 12v. Here’s an overhead pic. I ended up drilling a hole and cutting a little to slip the wire through, but allow the driver side rubber stopper to be reinstalled. My thumb is covering up the bright blue light from the adapter.
Was there a specific reason you chose the drivers side to run the wire up to the top of the windshield? My detector is mounted to the rear view mirror so it's in the middle and can go either way. Maybe one side has less obstacles.
 

Scrutmonkey

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#12
I couldn’t figure out better path since the passenger side had the glove box and I wasn’t quite sure how to get around or under it.

I tucked and routed the wire and didn’t remove too much stuff.
 

NJturtlePower

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#14
Following.... Currently using a Escort Passport 9500IX hardwired with a BlendMount bracket and hoping the Model 3 might have the same install options.

In my Chrysler 300S like many cars you are able to tap a 12v source in the mirror/rain sensor harness for the detector using a "MirrorTap" power cord. As mine is now it turns ON and OFF with the ignition which is perfect.

https://store.blendmount.com/mirror...line-fuse-with-military-grade-taps-p3513.aspx

Currently I see BlendMount makes an option for the Model X but no other Tesla.

https://store.blendmount.com/model-x-c12549.aspx

Does the Model 3 have a mirror stem or arm like the X? How about a wire harness for the sensors & cameras? Somebody please take a side angle view of the mirror/camera housing.

Attached some pics of my current install. Love the clean flush mount...nothing on the window and no cords hanging or strung about. I'm a bit OCD so I even spray painted my EZ-Pass tag on the window so you don't see the ugly white box. ;)
 

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Scrutmonkey

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#15
Thanks for the info @Scrutmonkey! Going to give it a go this weekend.
Sorry for the bad pics and i just used paint to put a red line to the route I used.

I basically used a rounded rubber thing and my Chargepoint Card to:

1. Tuck the line into the headliner, i couldn't figure out how to remove the center mirror/camera cover. So I chose the path of least resistance.
2. Route behind the the A pillar,
3. Down the door seal (That Chargepoint card really came in handy.)
4. Behind the kick panel. I started by pulling up the driver side tunnel and the rest pops off. I didn't remove completely as I just routed the wire in and behind the panel. There are two little tabs on it, toward the firewall that you'll need to tuck in behind before snapping it all back into place. You'll see, just grab a flashlight.
5. Then I just followed a seam that runs right under the steering area. You can sort of wiggle the wire through.
6. Removed he driver side center console trim
7. Removed the Driver side Center console trim bracket (there's a youtube on this part, you'll need a star shaped Hex wrench/driver tool and remove all the screws.
8. Routed wire behind the Driver Side center console trim bracket
9. I removed the little rubber bumper on the arm rest and drilled a hole and made a slot to route the wire under it. then replaced it back as I noticed the arm rest has a lot of movement without it.
10. Put your car back together and plug in the 12v or splice into the 12v wiring. there was a youtube vid on how to remove the cup holders pieces as well in case you want to hard wire.
 

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Scrutmonkey

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#16
Following.... Currently using a Escort Passport 9500IX hardwired with a BlendMount bracket and hoping the Model 3 might have the same install options.

In my Chrysler 300S like many cars you are able to tap a 12v source in the mirror/rain sensor harness for the detector using a "MirrorTap" power cord. As mine is now it turns ON and OFF with the ignition which is perfect.

https://store.blendmount.com/mirror...line-fuse-with-military-grade-taps-p3513.aspx

Currently I see BlendMount makes an option for the Model X but no other Tesla.

https://store.blendmount.com/model-x-c12549.aspx

Does the Model 3 have a mirror stem or arm like the X? How about a wire harness for the sensors & cameras? Somebody please take a side angle view of the mirror/camera housing.

Attached some pics of my current install. Love the clean flush mount...nothing on the window and no cords hanging or strung about. I'm a bit OCD so I even spray painted my EZ-Pass tag on the window so you don't see the ugly white box. ;)
yup, the 3 looks like the X style but again, i couldn't figure out how to remove the housing and i tend to go Hulk on things when I get frustrated. I read somewhere that the S had two leads behind their housing that an be tapped, hopefully the 3 has a similar connection and your link to the Blendmount looks to be a good one. When I hard lined my radar in my old Altima, I used a 12v to 5 v converter with a fuse that tapped the mirror power.
 
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#17
Great info! I’m debating what to do for my detector. Just got my M3 this week! How long is your cable? I just purchased a 12’ extension cord since my coiled cord won’t cut it. Thanks!

Sorry for the bad pics and i just used paint to put a red line to the route I used.

I basically used a rounded rubber thing and my Chargepoint Card to:

1. Tuck the line into the headliner, i couldn't figure out how to remove the center mirror/camera cover. So I chose the path of least resistance.
2. Route behind the the A pillar,
3. Down the door seal (That Chargepoint card really came in handy.)
4. Behind the kick panel. I started by pulling up the driver side tunnel and the rest pops off. I didn't remove completely as I just routed the wire in and behind the panel. There are two little tabs on it, toward the firewall that you'll need to tuck in behind before snapping it all back into place. You'll see, just grab a flashlight.
5. Then I just followed a seam that runs right under the steering area. You can sort of wiggle the wire through.
6. Removed he driver side center console trim
7. Removed the Driver side Center console trim bracket (there's a youtube on this part, you'll need a star shaped Hex wrench/driver tool and remove all the screws.
8. Routed wire behind the Driver Side center console trim bracket
9. I removed the little rubber bumper on the arm rest and drilled a hole and made a slot to route the wire under it. then replaced it back as I noticed the arm rest has a lot of movement without it.
10. Put your car back together and plug in the 12v or splice into the 12v wiring. there was a youtube vid on how to remove the cup holders pieces as well in case you want to hard wire.
 

Scrutmonkey

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#18
Great info! I’m debating what to do for my detector. Just got my M3 this week! How long is your cable? I just purchased a 12’ extension cord since my coiled cord won’t cut it. Thanks!
My camera box said 12ft but I have a few feet of it lopped in a twisty in the center console. You should have more than enough with the 12 footer.
 

350VDC

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#20
I managed to use my old Blendmount from my previous Golf R. Its a little fiddly but managed to get it to grasp onto the mirror stem. Fed the wire in a similar path as above and under the side trim of the center console to the 12V socket. My detector also has a remote button which is stuck to the underside right of the dash.
So far it works quite well and hopefully Blendmount will design a specific mount adapter soon.
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